Poor Livorno – it is the second-largest town in Tuscany, but it gets about 1 millionth of the attention and love. That’s because Livorno had the charm – and a lot more – bombed out of it during World War II, and there is little left to see aside from Bountalenti’s brick fortress. But in addition to Cacciucco, the excellent local fish stew that seems to include everything in the kitchen sink, Livorno is also famous for their ponce, a dazzlingly alcoholic after-dinner drink.
The name is pronounced “punch,” and it was inspired by the rum punch brought to this bustling port by British sailors. The ponce is very similar to a hot toddy: mix rum, brandy, and sugar and then run a hot espresso right from the machine into the glass; garnish with lemon rind. It’ll wake you up at first, and then knock you out for a nice long siesta.
