Florentines really know how to do street parties, as anyone who was out for the Notte Bianca in the Oltrarno last week could tell you. Summer is fully upon us, and amid the heat and humidity, there are also a lots of fun events – many focused in some way on food and wine. This Thursday, June 28, is the annual Cocomerata (watermelon festival) in the Porta Romana neighborhood. Via Senese will be closed off, and the local food and wine sellers will be offering free or cheap samples to passers-by. And of course, there will be plenty of watermelon by the slice. I went last year and it a blast.
As long as I’m on the subject of Porta Romana … I know this neighborhood is a little out of the way for most people, but I used to live there (on Via Ugo Foscolo) and so got to know some of the excellent little eateries in the zone:
- First, probably my favorite pizzeria in Florence, Antica Porta, is right there at the foot of Via Senese, presided over by the gravelly voiced Nello. I can’t get enough of their super-thin crust.
- Second, Gaultieri, the pasticceria across the street, is outstanding. The people working there are not the most friendly, but I go for the sfoglie with ricotta, not for amicizia.
- Bar Petrarca on the Porta Romana traffic circle is just a fantastic all-around bar. Francesco makes one of the best cappuccini in town, the pastries are great, and the primi piatti at lunchtime are delicious and affordable.
- Gambi, also on Via Senese, is a very good wine shop with a small but well-chosen selection. They have another branch in the center of town.
- Luca, with the little alimentari on Via Senese, cooks all night and sells his homemade dishes from his shop, along with top-quality cheeses and salumi. The goods here are expensive but delicious. If you don’t have time to cook, you can pick up one of Luca’s slices of lasagne, eggplant parmesan, stuffed tomatoes, or simple side dishes like beans and boiled greens.
