Mashed Potatoes alla Emmy

It’s Thanksgiving, even here in Tuscany. I am very happy not to be hosting this year; it’s fun to do the whole shebang, but also exhausting, especially when you are five months pregnant. I’ve done Thanksgiving several times now in Florence and it is always a lot of fun. I reserve my turkey from the polleria, roast chestnuts for stuffing, make cippoline in agrodolce, and my favorite chocolate cake. But this year I am thankful to be making only mashed potatoes and said cake.

I’ve made mashed potatoes so many times in so many different permutations that I feel qualified to offer my own recipe/expertise. I used to subscribe to the Marcella Hazan philosophy of boiling the potatoes unpeeled and then peeling and ricing them after, but handling those hot potatoes is a big pain. In my cooking school here in Florence we quartered the potatoes and then boiled them in water with a little milk. I have finally ended up going back to basics, and I find the results very creamy and delicious.

A lot depends on the potatoes you use. This year I bought potatoes directly from my lady farmer - organic, covered in dirt, straight from the source - and I might be committing sacrilege by saying that I think the potatoes I get from my regular produce retailer up the street are more flavorful and better texture. Hmmm. The most important instrument for this dish is the potato ricer - it’s easy to use and creates a creamy consitency.

Thanksgiving Mashed Potatoes with Mascarpone
Serves 6 or so

8 large potatoes, either russet, large yellow waxy, or Yukon gold
2 tablespoons kosher salt
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup (250 g) mascarpone or sour cream (not lowfat)
1 cup (250 ml) half and half or heavy cream
1/2 cup (125 g) freshly grated parmesan cheese, or more to taste
More kosher salt to taste
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley (optional)

Peel the potatoes and either halve or quarter them, depending on how big. Place in a large pot and add cold water to about 1 inch above the potatoes. plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat to medium, and boil for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Drain in a colander. Keep the hot pot on the stove and add the 4 T butter. Process the potatoes through the ricer back into the hot pot. Mix the potatoes with a wooden spoon; add the mascarpone, half the cream, the parmesan cheese, and salt to taste and continue stirring until the flavor is as you want it. If needed, add the rest of the cream and stir to combine. Add the parsley, if using, and stir to combine. Serve warm.